Eric wrote: ↑Mon Mar 28, 2022 5:35 pm
I think you will find they know what they are doing.
Yes , that’s why I chose them . I chomping at the bit to get the rims and spokes although I gotta wait a couple days for the hubs to come back from being cleaned.
I have the tyres now and rim tape but the tubes and goop were missing. As the packaging was all ripped I suspect the tubes and goop either fell out or was ‘removed’….
Got both hubs back from being cleaned today plus brake plate and Cush drive cover - £40 the lot. Place on Canvey did them.
I’m wondering if anyone had built their disc front wheel without painting the hub black ? It looks really cool as it is.
Rims and spokes due next week so I’ve got a bit of time before I decide .
Phil
D1B79F31-DAED-499C-92FE-7D93DBFE406C.jpeg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
So i started putting bearings in the Front hub. I was careful driving the new bearings in but i noticed that the spacer touches the inner bearing face before the bearing sits on the hub face. Is that how its supposed to be ?
Also , does the bearing really need the 42mm circlip ? If its critical ill just order a standard 42mm one off EBay.
Ordered 42mm interior circlip off EBay .
But, I have yet more questions :
1/ my rear brake shoe pivots don’t appear to have a groove for circlips or even a hole for a j clip. Are some models built without the need for the washer and clips…?
2/ rear sprocket bolts - parts list says M10 but they look like M10 fine thread. Is that correct?
Ta
Phil
DFE76BF2-1687-46E4-93F4-F81CF966E451.jpeg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
This morning I was going to reassemble the forks.
But I looked at the bottom of the new fork leg tubes and the removable bush is bigger on the new ones . I’ve attached a photo of the old and new compared. Plus a photo of the inside parts.
Are my forks correct for S2A or are the new tube bushes incorrect?
Thanks
Phil
E08FC6D3-8F23-41E6-AED3-277531034552.jpeg
692A1597-0182-40E6-AF35-BC040B776765.jpeg
150E0B44-FD78-4477-B04C-F7D3D5F4A042.jpeg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Front fork spring caps arrived from NZ and fitted. Just need to find my ratchet strap to enable me to tighten bottom screw then I can assemble back on bike which enables lots of other stuff to go back on…
Rims and spokes arrived this morning and all assembled onto old hubs . Just need to build a stand to allow me to support wheels to true then up . Then fit tyres and tubes …
Coming along
4F6ECEB5-E372-4446-A414-6F4CA189EE68.jpeg
8847C406-3785-4A65-A126-E61081D57BB7.jpeg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Does anyone know if you can buy the HT leads made up ?
I see I can buy the spark plug ends and new lead but haven’t seen the coil ends on sale.
I do have the old ones - could I reuse them ? Presume I need a special crimping tool so thought it’d be easier buying them made up ….
Ta
Phil
Unless you have different coils to what is on my S2 and S2A, you screw the HT lead into the coil like you do to the HT cap and if I was you I would fit new cable and caps from the get go.
You need to unscrew the end off the coil which helps hold your cable in place and keeps damp out first, push you HT cable through these first then screw cable into the coil end, put washer back in place and then screw cap back on.
New cable can be bought in 1m length which you can cut to lengths.
Thanks I’ll get out in the garage and check out what I can do
Just managed to cadge an original seat base and new cover and the elusive rear tailpiece grab rail which was missing from my bike .
Ok, dust seals fitted to forks now , just needed softening up in boiling water first …
Next up : wiring loom and sub-looms.
Finding the connector blocks on my new loom and new sub looms are very loose fit. Old ones are ok.
What are suggestions to fix this? I’m looking at getting new connectors and fitting them . It’s the same on all the connectors even the original Kawasaki warning lamp loom.
Thanks
Phil
F5BD1915-FEFF-4827-8529-DE5CD0EF8A46.jpeg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
So this morning went to fit the forks to the frame … When I ordered the new headlamp brackets I checked all the dimensions were ok . But now I come to fit I see there are some differences.
First the headlamp fixing location is lower . Don’t think this is a big issue .
Secondly the length of the new bracket is longer. I don’t think this is a major issue either as the top mount is fixed by a pinch bolt and I’ve moved sliders up in other bikes so I don’t think a couple of mms will make any difference.
Third, the diameter of the tubes is bigger so not allowing the top washer to slip over the tube as I presume it has to. Any suggestion for fixing that ? Or I will have to grind away a small amount to get the washer on.
I also seem to have lost the top rubbers. I have the lower ones which I think are the larger of the two. Anywhere is the U.K. that sells them by any chance ??? I think they are needed to isolate the headlamp from vibration.
Thanks guys
Phil
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
