Great to hear that you going well, I had the same with my seat trims using M3 pan head bolts, had to make two flat spots with a file then fitted through the seat and did the nuts with washers up by hand which meant I could slide the trim forward and backwards on the seat, then when happy with position I gripped the end of the bolt with pillars to stop the bolt from turning while I then done the nut up with a spanner, I then cut the over hang of the bolt off.
Also sorry I haven't been up to my brothers/stores to measure the clutch rods as I got tried up in a family thing, brother said he will have a measure for me and let me know as soon as.
Tony I only use stainless screws . I know some people frown on that but I want as little maintenance as possible ….
In the meantime here’s some some more pics.
Phil
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So cracking on now after the clutch issue….
Just went to fit tachometer but it won’t screw in . I think it’s the right thread but the inner is holding it off as it’s longer than the original. Anyone come across this as I am gonna try to cut a couple mm off the inner part….
Phil
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No can't say I have, have you tried putting the old one back in to make sure nothing is blocking the female connection end? If not may be wroth trying to take the old inter core out of the cable and see how far that will go in, then compare that measurement to the new cable end.
Morning , I’ve not fitted it to the clock yet . But I’ll go out in a mo and measure the differences. Don’t know why I ordered a new cable really as the old one seems ok if a little battered . Ah I remember now - the protector spring is all broken …
Cheers
Phil
So I can see now that the new one has shorter distance from end to back of abutment but when it’s fitted there’s a lot more room in the old one. In other words the new one will never go in and the cable can’t go into the nut piece enough … teach me to but a cable off EBay .
And another quickie - shall I fit throttle and choke cables on carbs before I fit them to the bike ?
Looks like it might be easier…
Well this is what I did, fitted the carb bodies without the carb tops, this stopped them swing around, then fitted the chokes first to the carbs, then as i fitted the throttle cables to the carbs one at a time screwed them onto the carbs, then routed my cable through the frame and up to the twist grip.
Don't think it's the easiest just what I do on a rebuild when the tanks not on, easy to get to the carb tops.
Be aware of repro cables having a longer inner than they should, that when tightened up on the clock, push the internal workings up so they bind and get buggered in fairly short order. You need to feel how it is seating and gently tighten rather than just tighten against resistance. Shorten the inner as necessary.
The inner won’t come out without taking off the crimped on end pieces ….
I will have to get one from Simon.
I just been fitting carbs and realised I’ve got a heat insulator missing. It’s weird as I recall having one missing and buying a replacement but I’ve still got one missing - I must be going mad………
Phil
So just fitting choke cables to carbs, all going well till I realise 2 of the cables have come out of the splitter and I can’t see how to get them back in….
Anyone else had this happen. I see the old cable had a nice metal splitter . So I’m soaking that in WD40 to see if I can use that instead of the plastic one on the new cable.
2 steps forward 1 step back ….
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Looks like another Ebay job, I found the same thing a few years ago, these plastic ones always come apart when trying to fit, that's on both the throttle and choke and I have never used one since, they can go back together but 10 times out of 10 will coming apart again, best go to Simon Kawatriples or Z power and save yourself a load of grieve.
The steel body ones are the best and don't fall apart.
