help

kas750 · Post by **kas750** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:56 am

Be worth spraying wd40 around the crankcase halves Gary when it's running.

Post by **Wolfie** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:05 am

did you use sealant on the halves when rebuilding?

downpipe3 · Post by **downpipe3** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 5:51 pm

Wolfie wrote:did you use sealant on the halves when rebuilding?

the bike was not built by me,it was just dropped off to me with possible carb problem

and its far from that !!

Post by **Wolfie** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:07 pm

Hmm, I recently had a theory about using sealant, I know we all have done, but for the last fifteen years or so, every time I rebuilt the S1 I used sealant and let it semi harden before torqueing up the cases.

Each time, the generator side crank seal popped out sometime later, I think that letting it semi harden means it can't squeeze out of the joint effectively making a gasket and reducing the clamping force on the oil seals.

If lots was applied and left to cure before clamping up, I suppose it could lead to leaks in the casings, anyone else had strange problems that could be attributed to this sort of thing?

kas750 · Post by **kas750** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:19 pm

A crankcase half is so well machined that you could almost do without the sealant.The finest even smear on all of the crankcase gasket face and then assemble immediately and torque in the correct sequence will always work.The temptation is to put just that bit more on to be sure,but that is unneccessary.Also if the crankcases are not a close fit there are other potential risks to main bearings and gearbox bearings.

Magee · Post by **Magee** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:33 pm

does it have a USDA made reed kit in it???

downpipe3 · Post by **downpipe3** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:04 pm

Magee wrote:does it have a USDA made reed kit in it???

now but i know what you mean you daft bugger

downpipe3 · Post by **downpipe3** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:19 am

right getting closer to this now
the bike rides and starts,i have tried it with baffles out and no different
the bike pulls quite well up to 6k but wont rev beyond that, it just farts and spluters and wont go any more no matter how hard you nail it
the red light on the clock seems to start showing its face now
anymore ideas ?

SAM · Post by **SAM** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:13 am

What are the Plugs like? After that 6 thou run? Have you changed them? You know how even new ones can mess about!

TallyB · Post by **TallyB** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:41 am

Coils ??????

SAM · Post by **SAM** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:02 am

TallyB wrote:Coils ??????

No its just the way he walks

downpipe3 · Post by **downpipe3** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:10 pm

it has only 1 coil and i tried another known good 1 and that made no difference
yep good point sam i might try another set

scouse · Post by **scouse** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:47 pm

the red light coming on means the battery is not charging
which could be why it won't rev above 6?

Gary T

Keith500 · Post by **Keith500** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:28 pm

have you tried the float chamber breathers at the back of the inlet on the carb

downpipe3 · Post by **downpipe3** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:53 am

i have tried it with different carbs and it was no good
RB dropped by last sunday and i am going to try some v rated plugs ,he has had early h1 before that would not run with v plugs
also gonna wip the heads off and chec the deck heights of the pistons and try another set of heads

gary c

Keith500 · Post by **Keith500** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 1:08 pm

spark plug leads are they the correct type

are the connections of the leads ok

downpipe3 · Post by **downpipe3** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:57 pm

i have even tried the leads off my h1a mate

Post by **Wolfie** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:30 pm

Have you looked to see if any 'tuning' work has been performed on the internals?

Keith500 · Post by **Keith500** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:00 pm

the dizzy cap

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