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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:56 am
by kas750
Be worth spraying wd40 around the crankcase halves Gary when it's running. :)

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:05 am
by Wolfie
did you use sealant on the halves when rebuilding?


m

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 5:51 pm
by downpipe3
Wolfie wrote:did you use sealant on the halves when rebuilding?

the bike was not built by me,it was just dropped off to me with possible carb problem

and its far from that !!

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:07 pm
by Wolfie
Hmm, I recently had a theory about using sealant, I know we all have done, but for the last fifteen years or so, every time I rebuilt the S1 I used sealant and let it semi harden before torqueing up the cases.

Each time, the generator side crank seal popped out sometime later, I think that letting it semi harden means it can't squeeze out of the joint effectively making a gasket and reducing the clamping force on the oil seals.

If lots was applied and left to cure before clamping up, I suppose it could lead to leaks in the casings, anyone else had strange problems that could be attributed to this sort of thing?

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:19 pm
by kas750
A crankcase half is so well machined that you could almost do without the sealant.The finest even smear on all of the crankcase gasket face and then assemble immediately and torque in the correct sequence will always work.The temptation is to put just that bit more on to be sure,but that is unneccessary.Also if the crankcases are not a close fit there are other potential risks to main bearings and gearbox bearings.

intake

Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:33 pm
by Magee
does it have a USDA made reed kit in it???

Re: intake

Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:04 pm
by downpipe3
Magee wrote:does it have a USDA made reed kit in it???

now but i know what you mean you daft bugger

m

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:19 am
by downpipe3
right getting closer to this now
the bike rides and starts,i have tried it with baffles out and no different
the bike pulls quite well up to 6k but wont rev beyond that, it just farts and spluters and wont go any more no matter how hard you nail it
the red light on the clock seems to start showing its face now
anymore ideas ?

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:13 am
by SAM
What are the Plugs like? After that 6 thou run? Have you changed them? You know how even new ones can mess about!

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:41 am
by TallyB
Coils ??????

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:02 am
by SAM
TallyB wrote:Coils ??????
No its just the way he walks

m

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:10 pm
by downpipe3
it has only 1 coil and i tried another known good 1 and that made no difference
yep good point sam i might try another set

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:47 pm
by scouse
the red light coming on means the battery is not charging
which could be why it won't rev above 6?

Gary T

Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:28 pm
by Keith500
have you tried the float chamber breathers at the back of the inlet on the carb :?:

m

Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:53 am
by downpipe3
i have tried it with different carbs and it was no good
RB dropped by last sunday and i am going to try some v rated plugs ,he has had early h1 before that would not run with v plugs
also gonna wip the heads off and chec the deck heights of the pistons and try another set of heads

gary c

Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 1:08 pm
by Keith500
spark plug leads are they the correct type :?: are the connections of the leads ok :?:

m

Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:57 pm
by downpipe3
i have even tried the leads off my h1a mate

Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:30 pm
by Wolfie
Have you looked to see if any 'tuning' work has been performed on the internals?

Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:00 pm
by Keith500
the dizzy cap :?: