Page 1 of 1
FRONT SPROCKET TAB WASHER.
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:10 pm
by Gard
Hi guys ..whats the special formula for locking that nut on real tight for the front sprocketOF THE H2 ?...last checked mine 2 years ago looked fine but still managed to fall off last weekend luckily just pulling away from the lights and "plop" i heard it go ding and fall into the cover..2nd time in about 20 yrs ...tab had disintigrated so NEW TAB / LOCK TITE PASTE AND A HERCULEAN WRENCH HIGHER THAN THE TORQUE SETTING.....oh are repro vin headstock labels still available through rick..many thanks.
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:50 pm
by Wolfie
You seem to have covered all the usual bases.
I got some of that loctite in a lipstick, to be honest it's rubbish, my big nuts are always easy to undo even after the mother of all tightens.
I'll be borrowing the liquid version from work in future.
FRONT SPROCKET TAB WASHER.
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:19 pm
by Gard
thanks wolfiee
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:11 pm
by Per K
In many cases the tab will be sheared off when tightening the nut. If friction between nut and washer is higher than between washer and gear then the washer will likely rotate and the tab will be sheared off.
Here's what I do:
1) Clean all the parts and the treads on the shaft using Loctite Superclean. The parts must be 100% free from oil, grease or other lubes.
2) Apply tread lock to the treads inside the nut. I use Novalok type M, but any good tread lock will do.
3) Apply a small amount of grease to the back of the nut (facing the washer). Do not let any grease or oil get between the washer and gear.
4) Attach the nut and tighten to prescribed torque. Now, having lubrication between nut and washer, and completely dry between washer and gear, will prevent the washer from rotating when tightening.
5) Bend the washer up against the nut. One place is sufficient.
PK
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:36 pm
by scouse
yes rick still does do vin stickers
Gary T
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 4:02 am
by JA - Moo
The problem is the play between the sprocket and shaft. Even with tight the 1000's of pulls and pushes moves the sprocket slowly loosening the nut. Take a feeler guage piece and shim the sprocket so there is no play. Then do the torquing to 70 ft/lbs, with super clean threads and blue locktite. That should fix you right up.
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:27 pm
by Mr Boring
I apply loctite to the splines INSIDE the sprocket, fit it, then apply loctite to the thread before fitting the washer and nut.
It is not designed to be an adhesive as such, but a gap filler to improve fits.
Being a grade 'A' tight twat of extreme proportions I even re-use the washer once the tab has broken-flatten the washer before fitting and centre punch it into the 'tab' hole in the sprocket.
If you think about it you have another 5 opportunities to fold the washer over the nut for security--- before it becomes scrap.
Lock the sprocket against the crankcase with a bar or block of soft aluminium to avoid damage and tighten the nut with a breaker bar-as tight as you like.
It has worked for me for 30 years ever since my sprocket fell off attending the first rally in '83 and I swore never to have to piss about looking for the nut on a busy dual-carriage way after only a 125 mile trip from home!
6 years later my bike took me almost 3000 mls abroad without a hitch-----so for me, this method is bulletproof.
Don't admit to this method to the concourse boys when your bike is being judged--not the done thing I suspect
impact wrench
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:38 pm
by Stephen Thompson
I always find that an air or electric impact wrench is brilliant for tightening this type of nut will easily exceed the required torque.
I got an electric one works of the battery from Argos for about £20 it great for crank nuts etc.
Loctite comes in many grades designed for different applications to say it?s not an adhesive is I think a little wrong the thing to note is it will not set in the presence of air that?s why it always comes in a half empty bottle.