Electronic Flasher Unit

[Biggles]

Most may know this, but the electronic flasher units sold for the CDI triples will not work. I'm posting this because it was an interesting discovery. Old unit on H2A caused very slow flashing, so rapid replacement from KTP was fitted. It worked perfectly when the bike was not running but as soon as the engine was started it failed completely. In an effort to trace voltages I grabbed my voltmeter only to discover that it was giving erratic and ridiculous readings when in the vicinity of the bike when running. So, I concluded that the hefty RF emissions from the CDI components were maybe disrupting both the flasher unit and the voltmeter. Upshot: bought a bi-metalic type unit and it now works perfectly. Unit is also much closer to the look of the original part.
Hope this is of use.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-CAR- ... 2749.l2649

[Wolfie]

The standard flasher from most older cars works perfectly, the third terminal simply connects to ground and provides a fixed load keeping them stable over a wide range of bulbs, but I haven't tried one with LED bulbs..

As for your meter, Buy yourself a cheap little analogue meter off ebay for about 5quid and you can even measure the ignition voltages with it, great for fault finding the Igniton system. I would make a guess that your regulator may be dud in order to kill the Flasher unit like that.

Yep, Electronic meters often won't work in the viscinity of the electronic ignition units. They are notorious for their RF interference although I've struggled to find which frequency bands they affect worst.
I lost all my pictures from one rally by having the camera on a necklace and dangling just above my lap.

But, not to worry, I expect our nadgers will absorb most of the RF while we're riding.

[Tilly H2C]

I have a similar thing on my H2c, the indicators work great in the garage but not on the road, the problem I think is the generator voltage as it creeps up to 15.2vdc with higher than idle rpm,

I have a spare rectifier/regulator and that is the same, Jim from Lakeland will fit his modern 13.2vdc rec/reg into your old case, I have just emptied one of mine to send to him

[Wolfie]

One of Simon Triplesparts standard Reg/Rec's will also do the job.

[BIG H]

I have a similar thing on my H2c, the indicators work great in the garage but not on the road, the problem I think is the generator voltage as it creeps up to 15.2vdc with higher than idle rpm,

I have a spare rectifier/regulator and that is the same, Jim from Lakeland will fit his modern 13.2vdc rec/reg into your old case, I have just emptied one of mine to send to him

15 VOLTS +/- 0.5V is normal for an H2 with no load on the system ( lights off)
It does tell you this in the workshop manual.
There is no need to replace your regulator.
As for a good flasher unit use Kawasaki 27002-1053
Just make sure you connect the Brown wire to the B pin.

[Tilly H2C]

I have a similar thing on my H2c, the indicators work great in the garage but not on the road, the problem I think is the generator voltage as it creeps up to 15.2vdc with higher than idle rpm,

I have a spare rectifier/regulator and that is the same, Jim from Lakeland will fit his modern 13.2vdc rec/reg into your old case, I have just emptied one of mine to send to him

15 VOLTS +/- 0.5V is normal for an H2 with no load on the system ( lights off)
It does tell you this in the workshop manual.
There is no need to replace your regulator.
As for a good flasher unit use Kawasaki 27002-1053
Just make sure you connect the Brown wire to the B pin.

Thanks for that, I also read the same but quoted and measured seem to disagree a little, It might be normal for a H2 to get to well over 15vdc with little load but in the 'normal' world 14.2 is more realistic, that kind of voltage doesn't do anything any good and the last thing I need is my lithium battery catching fire, I also assume that the high voltage is probably the cause of a lot of the battery acid stains seen on many LH exhaust pipes

[Wolfie]

15.2V is the top end of being OK for a 12V Battery, adding the Afterthought Rectifier will bring that down by another .7V whether your battery discharges when left alone or not. That should be spot on.