Starting my H2B after two years

[rene]

I have a Rick Brett imported H2B which was refreshed in 2012 by Paul Scanlon rebuilt including crank and rebore with Wiseco pistons. I have not ridden it the last couple of years and drained the fuel from tank and carbs. I need to get it running as I’ll be selling it so could use some advice please.

I’m thinking of removing the plugs and putting a small amount of two-stroke oil in the cylinder then cranking it over before putting the plugs back in. As I’ll be filling the tank with fresh fuel, I’m tempted to mix oil at a ratio of 50:1 just to help things along when I first start it. Is that a good plan? Welcome other ideas and what two-stroke oil is recommended please?

[Wolfie]

A drop or two of 2stroke oil in the cyls first for a few kicks isn't a bad idea but don't go mad..

Any el cheapo 2 stroke oil in the Oiltank will do, but I wouldn't bother mixing it in the fuel.

[Tilly H2C]

Make sure the oil tank hasnt drained into the cases, if it has starting it will bend a connecting rod,

Remove all 3 carbs, look down inlet and get the piston above the inlet port, with a piece of fuel pipe and a large syringe or similar (bike pump?) push the pipe down past the crank and try nad suck out any oil that 'may' be in there

[rene]

Thank you both for the useful advice

[rene]

OK I have got the three carbs off and intend to ultrasonically clean them while at it. I do have some questions relating to the oil supply to the carbs please:
1. The banjos have aluminium washers - is this correct or should they be a gasket material?
2. When I re-fit do I need to bleed / prime the oil supply before starting the engine?
3. What two-stroke oil should I use please?

Thank you.

[Wolfie]

The Aluminium "washers" are the Gaskets.

The only need to bleed,is to hold the Pump Cam wide open while the Bike ticks over.

Use any old 2Stroke Oil, my own preference is to use whatever is cheapest. But others will disagree.

[Tilly H2C]

If you strip the carbs down for ultrasonic cleaning dont forget to check the small air passageway that goes from the rear of the carb through to the neede jet, it's quite hard to see, I use a mag lite with the bulb exposed and put the bulb into the carb body where the needle jet lives and look through the hole in the rear. also check that the sealing/blanking small balls remain in place on the carb rear after the cleaning

[Wolfie]

As Tilly said.. This Bleed Jet, and it's tiny. I put a Tiny Light bulb up the main Jet Cavity to illuminate it.

Be careful how you clear the Bleed Jet, this year I had no end of running trouble with the H2 after poking it with a needle and presumably doing it a mischief.

Only a replacement Carb body eventually cured it.

WhatsApp Image 2025-11-25 at 10.10.05_00bcac77.jpg

[Tilly H2C]

^ Thats the one Wolfie, I had some running issues and actually managed to change one of those jets with one from a knackered carb (someone had cut bits away to make pod filters fit better) I cut the carb through the air slide and carefully tapped it out, I measured it, I seem to remember 0.6mm?

Getting the one out of my good carb was also quite easy, i drilled it to 2.0 mm hole in the brass jet and simply wound a thread tap into it, placed the tap into my vice and tapped the carb from it

I measured the depth accuratly so I could be sure it was in the same depth and refitted the jet into my 'good' carb

Picture of the jet attached to my threading tap and one of the 'good' jet before I fitted it

Air correction jet.JPEG

Air correction jet 2.JPEG

[Wolfie]

Oh well done Tilly..

Thanks for posting that method, Tangoman supplied a knackered Carb Body for me to cut up.. I'll certainly give that a try,
I don't have a tap that small but will see what I can come up with.

Erm... when it's warmer. Brrrrr

[Wolfie]

Couldn't wait after all and as I suspected, all that sawing kept me warm in the shed..

I'd like to try and press the Jet out of the good carb too but that ain't gonna be easy and so may be done in stages.

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[rene]

Thank you both so much for the useful tips - much appreciated.

[Wolfie]

Even betterer... The non-destructive method using 3 bits of wire Coathanger.. Long bit with a 90Deg end to reach up the Main Jet cavity
and 2 short bits that are also small enough fit up the cavity and drop in behind the jet, then followed by the long one and pressed..

Then the bad news, I cant see any problem with the one that I'm replacing..


Top one is the "good" one from the Cut up Carb and the bottom is the one out of the duff Carb Body

WhatsApp Image 2025-11-27 at 19.28.29_870e527c.jpg

[Wolfie]

I'm quite proud of that solution...

[skub]

I'm quite proud of that solution...

The mother of invention,right there.

[Charlie Morriss]

Weren't The Mothers of Invention Frank Zappa's band?

[skub]

Weren't The Mothers of Invention Frank Zappa's band?

Troo dat.

[Tilly H2C]

I'm quite proud of that solution...

Nice Job, I'll remember that if I ever need to go there again,

I did wonder though................

I have 'played around' with Suzuki air correction jets that was a factory fix for the GT750 water buffalo to stop, or help reduce the surging issues, you simply taped the carb (4mm I think) and screwed one of the jet sizes in, I think there were 3 sizes and I got mine from Steve/Motocarb, I fitted a set before the air screw to try and help the 'closing throttle' surging, they did help but need to work hand in hand with however much you have your air screw adjusted, if theyre too small the air screw becomes 'redundant' and if too big they wont make any difference to the running.

When I had the issue of the 'poked around air jet' we are talking about here I did wonder what the effect would be of using these small suzuki air correction jets simply screwed in at the filter end of the passageway instead of our pressed in jet? you could then mess about with different sizes and see if you could alter the point at which the needle/needle jet starts to operate.

I believe the air coming up around the jet is called an artesian well