Kawasaki Triples Club

Eric wrote: ↑Mon Mar 28, 2022 5:35 pm I think you will find they know what they are doing.

Yes , that’s why I chose them . I chomping at the bit to get the rims and spokes although I gotta wait a couple days for the hubs to come back from being cleaned.
I have the tyres now and rim tape but the tubes and goop were missing. As the packaging was all ripped I suspect the tubes and goop either fell out or was ‘removed’….

Phil

malc87 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 28, 2022 12:17 pm Got it Phil, I will get them in the post

Got them Malc. Sent you a message

Phil

Got both hubs back from being cleaned today plus brake plate and Cush drive cover - £40 the lot. Place on Canvey did them.
I’m wondering if anyone had built their disc front wheel without painting the hub black ? It looks really cool as it is.

Rims and spokes due next week so I’ve got a bit of time before I decide .

Phil

The Z900 and KH500 use the same hub and are not painted black

Yes , prefer it unpainted…

So i started putting bearings in the Front hub. I was careful driving the new bearings in but i noticed that the spacer touches the inner bearing face before the bearing sits on the hub face. Is that how its supposed to be ?

Also , does the bearing really need the 42mm circlip ? If its critical ill just order a standard 42mm one off EBay.

Thanks Guys,

Phil

Ordered 42mm interior circlip off EBay .
But, I have yet more questions :
1/ my rear brake shoe pivots don’t appear to have a groove for circlips or even a hole for a j clip. Are some models built without the need for the washer and clips…?
2/ rear sprocket bolts - parts list says M10 but they look like M10 fine thread. Is that correct?

Ta
Phil

This morning I was going to reassemble the forks.
But I looked at the bottom of the new fork leg tubes and the removable bush is bigger on the new ones . I’ve attached a photo of the old and new compared. Plus a photo of the inside parts.
Are my forks correct for S2A or are the new tube bushes incorrect?
Thanks
Phil

Ok, so stripped both old and new bushes out. Picture shows old on left new on right . The old bush goes into the new tube ok . They don’t seem worn. Should I use the old bush assy in the new tube? I can’t see why not…

Front fork spring caps arrived from NZ and fitted. Just need to find my ratchet strap to enable me to tighten bottom screw then I can assemble back on bike which enables lots of other stuff to go back on…
Rims and spokes arrived this morning and all assembled onto old hubs . Just need to build a stand to allow me to support wheels to true then up . Then fit tyres and tubes …
Coming along

Looking good, great progress

malc87 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 14, 2022 5:08 pm Looking good, great progress

Agreed

Don't ya just love a good rebuild

Does anyone know if you can buy the HT leads made up ?
I see I can buy the spark plug ends and new lead but haven’t seen the coil ends on sale.
I do have the old ones - could I reuse them ? Presume I need a special crimping tool so thought it’d be easier buying them made up ….
Ta
Phil

Hi Phil,

Unless you have different coils to what is on my S2 and S2A, you screw the HT lead into the coil like you do to the HT cap and if I was you I would fit new cable and caps from the get go.

You need to unscrew the end off the coil which helps hold your cable in place and keeps damp out first, push you HT cable through these first then screw cable into the coil end, put washer back in place and then screw cap back on.

New cable can be bought in 1m length which you can cut to lengths.

Cheers Gary

Thanks I’ll get out in the garage and check out what I can do
Just managed to cadge an original seat base and new cover and the elusive rear tailpiece grab rail which was missing from my bike .

Just fitting fork dust seals but new ones look very tight . Is that correct ? Maybe I’ll boil them up first … don’t want them splitting.
Ta

The lip at the bottom of the seal holds them on. The rest is just a close fit..
Look a bit small to me

Ok, dust seals fitted to forks now , just needed softening up in boiling water first …

Next up : wiring loom and sub-looms.
Finding the connector blocks on my new loom and new sub looms are very loose fit. Old ones are ok.
What are suggestions to fix this? I’m looking at getting new connectors and fitting them . It’s the same on all the connectors even the original Kawasaki warning lamp loom.

Thanks
Phil

So this morning went to fit the forks to the frame … When I ordered the new headlamp brackets I checked all the dimensions were ok . But now I come to fit I see there are some differences.
First the headlamp fixing location is lower . Don’t think this is a big issue .
Secondly the length of the new bracket is longer. I don’t think this is a major issue either as the top mount is fixed by a pinch bolt and I’ve moved sliders up in other bikes so I don’t think a couple of mms will make any difference.
Third, the diameter of the tubes is bigger so not allowing the top washer to slip over the tube as I presume it has to. Any suggestion for fixing that ? Or I will have to grind away a small amount to get the washer on.
I also seem to have lost the top rubbers. I have the lower ones which I think are the larger of the two. Anywhere is the U.K. that sells them by any chance ??? I think they are needed to isolate the headlamp from vibration.

Thanks guys
Phil

Headlamp ears are a minefield Phil.

Hope those work out OK

This might help to ID what you have vs what you need.
http://kawatriple.com/partid/forks/forkearid.htm
"O" rings can be used as damper rubbers.