Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 9:15 pm
Wolfie obviously you don`t have a sensative touch, does your wife complain 
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Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 9:32 pm
i always use a light turn with pipe grips on the carb top just to seat em' tighter on the gasket prior to setting carbs
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:01 am
cheers Adie, I'll give that a wiz. I think I've got em pretty close now using the Gypsy peg method, but now I can double check em with your method.kas750 wrote:not got a pm Rog.... No big secret but i synchonise the slide heights from full throttle,this way you can feel the bottom of the slide when it is flush with the carb body.Set the slide to fully open on centre pot and lower or raise outers to suit.Piece of cake.Teaching you to suck eggs probably
I can't road test at the moment cos the weather here is ...erm....slightly damp
(read absolutely pissin it down) 
Will send P.M again, it was probably me that didn't send it properly (another senior moment)
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:01 am
it seems that the carbs are set up a lot better, BUT only a road test will confirm that, the weather this weekend has been crap, also the bike is in bits waiting for other parts, so maybe later this week 
The brakes, (that weren't) have now been sorted. The front caliper was seized, so plenty cleaning has been done and a repair kit fitted, it now seems better, but also needs road testing
The rear brake shoes fell out on removal of the rear wheel, the material having unbonded from the shoes, not surprising really as the bike has been stood for a long time
The next issue to sort is the cush drives which are also knackered and had been packed with some rubber 'spacers'
replacements are on order and as soon as they arrive I can get the bike built up and down to the M.O.T station
Can anyone confirm the chain required for the bike, I've got info that says 110 links, EK530 SH-T2G..is that correct
Ta
The brakes, (that weren't) have now been sorted. The front caliper was seized, so plenty cleaning has been done and a repair kit fitted, it now seems better, but also needs road testing
The rear brake shoes fell out on removal of the rear wheel, the material having unbonded from the shoes, not surprising really as the bike has been stood for a long time
The next issue to sort is the cush drives which are also knackered and had been packed with some rubber 'spacers'
replacements are on order and as soon as they arrive I can get the bike built up and down to the M.O.T station
Can anyone confirm the chain required for the bike, I've got info that says 110 links, EK530 SH-T2G..is that correct
Ta
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:24 am
You were lucky those shoes didn't part on a test ride Rog 
I think H2C chain should be 120 link
I think H2C chain should be 120 link
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:31 pm
well I did wonder why the brakes were a bit 'iffy' MalcolmMalcolm wrote:You were lucky those shoes didn't part on a test ride Rog
I think H2C chain should be 120 link
Having researched the chain spec I could only find that an H1 chain should be 102 links and H2 110, but now I've counted the old chain it is (as you said Malcolm) 120 links, so that's what I'll go for.
Thanks Malcolm....if anyone else knows any differently I'm all ears
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:15 pm
i bought the correct 120 linker, then found out i had a 49t rear on, still has,
doh,...but more entertainment
doh,...but more entertainment
Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 7:52 am
the180kid wrote:i bought the correct 120 linker, then found out i had a 49t rear on, still has,
doh,...but more entertainment