H1E Clutch Settings

[Nige S]

Hi Everyone,

I have just joined the club and have an H1E. Having had a small end go in the LH cylinder it ended up as a complete engine rebuild. I have not been near a bike for almost 40 years so alot of catching up to do.

To my question:

The clutch worm mechanism centre screw is touching the pushrod, without this I cannot stop things like drag or not being able to select neutral. The friction plates are new but the rest is as was.

Can anyone advise me on this as I tried many things and am not happy with the current setup and am concerned about wear to the parts




Many Thanks
Nige S

[Triple Parts]

Welcome to the Forum Nige, have a look in the Workshop Resources section, you will find loads of useful info in there including Workshop manuals to download.

Clutch Adjustment x1.jpg

[skub]

Welcome in Nige. Any pics of your H1?

[Nigel S]

Blooming heck. I just looked at this post and thought. I don't remember posting that. Then see it wasn't me.

[Nige S]

Hi Thanks for the warm welcome.

I have the proper Kawasaki Workshop Manual and found that the amount of movement of the worm was not enough when using the setting as described. Then thinking that the lever was not producing enough cable travel to enable the clutch properly. So I got a new 107mm cable from ZPower which helped the action a bit but not the actual travel. The worm is set slightly out so it is lower than the 80 degrees suggested to try and get the travel. I was still getting drag so I wound the centre screw in (I agree this is not best practice) as I couldn't get it to work otherwise. My final thought before winding the screw in was, the push rod does not travel far enough to separate the plates but is not achievable as the book states.

For sure something is not right. If anyone is successful in the setting could you explain to me step by step how you did it please.


I'll put some pictures up shortly, just go a new laptop.


Thanks again

Nige S

[Nige S]

Apologies I've just read the snippet from the manual, it seems I have it correct as the screw should be pushing on the rod as stated in the manual

I read somewhere the screw should be backed off eighth of a turn ??? or am I imagining that



Nige S

[Nige S]

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[Olde Coney]

Welcome to the asylum Nige ......you will find plenty great advice and help on here.....all you have to do is ask

[skub]

IMG-20250111-WA0000.jpg20251103_132511.jpg20250719_171808.jpg

It's really Ken Bruce.

Lovely H1 btw.

[Triple Parts]

Apologies I've just read the snippet from the manual, it seems I have it correct as the screw should be pushing on the rod as stated in the manual
I read somewhere the screw should be backed off eighth of a turn ??? or am I imagining that
Nige S

You've imagined that
The screw is to adjust the arm, to get it to the 80 degrees shown on the diagram. Then when you pull the cable, the arm will be approaching 90 degrees, which gives you maximum leverage.
Then finally, you can adjust the cable to get the lever play correct.

[Nige S]

Thanks for all the info, really appreciated

[Wolfie]

Welcome Nigel.

Which Clutch lifter do you have on the H1? There are three different Kawasaki ones and a Handful of aftermarket ones.

The later Kawasaki Ball Bearing type can suffer from a loose arm which limits the amount of lift available.

The aftermarket ones trade lift for ease of use so can be tricky to set up.

[Nige S]

Hi Wolfie,

I have the standard one. As it stands I believe I have it set up correctly as I can get in and out of the gears. No doubt there will be some settling in as the clutch wears initially.

Cheers
Nige S

[Triple Parts]

The adjustment is the same for all of them.

[TallyB]

It's really Ken Bruce.



Thought that myself.

[SAM]

Ken Kay kawasaki. I bought my New S3A ftom them. No key ring when i bought it

[Wolfie]

Hi Wolfie,

I have the standard one. As it stands I believe I have it set up correctly as I can get in and out of the gears. No doubt there will be some settling in as the clutch wears initially.

Cheers
Nige S

Hi Nigel...

There are Three standard Kawasaki ones..
As above the setting up is the same for them all.

Yours is most likely a Steel Ball bearing type or possibly a 6 spline Nylon.
If it is ball bearing, then just check that the lever is not loose on the central worm drive.

[Nige S]

Wolfie,

I have the nylon one. I rode the bike home as it was at a mates for the rebuild. I didn't dare to ride it any further the day the small end went. I'll see how the clutch goes during the running in period, still 493 miles to go. Hopefully there will be some nice days so I can complete the process.

Just as a mention for everyone on here, its great to be in amongst people with so much history and knowledge on triples. So a "BIG THANKYOU" to all.



Nige S.

[Collyolly]

Hi , do a search on the forum for ‘selecting neutral’ and you will find my post re ‘ Best mods’ ( Collyolly) I removed the steel rings that are fitted between the clutch plates, I think they are there to centralise the clutch plates but I believe they actually cause a small amount of drag, enough to prevent you selecting neutral ( on my H2 ) this mod transformed my neutral selection.
May be worth giving it a try, you can always put them back, but I have not found a reason to yet !
Good luck.

[Nige S]

Hi,

Thanks for the info, I've got some running in to do as I had a rebore as well. I'll give it a try when that is done.



Nige S