Rebuild 1973 350 S2A by Goalhanger Phil

[malc87]

Its looking great!
Are you keeping a note of what its cost you?

[Goalhanger]

They weren’t tight over the swing arm and in fact they kept falling off when I was assembling the whole unit. Judicious use of grease helped in that. But the assembly was very tight across the width and was quite a job single handed without damaging powder coating.
Keeping a list of all costs, but I’m frightened to add it up yet ….
Still got wheel rims and spokes, new fork sliders and painting for tank etc to pay for yet oh and exhaust system . Probably wouldn’t get my money back - don’t tell the missus - but not selling anyway.
I’ll be finished in a month or so, so I’d like a Yamaha DT400 to rebuild next as I had a new one in ‘76 and I loved that bike.

Phil

[Goalhanger]

So today been doing a bit of painting - footrest pivots etc.
But also managed to get the fork leg oil seal circlip and washer off both legs. Looks like I need to remove the lower cap part to get the seal out. Do I need a chain wrench like it shows in the manual.?
Also the circlip and washers are knackered but I can’t see any for sale , only in the USA with tons of postage … any ideas where to get them ?
You’re think for something tiny like circlips they would stick them in an envelope normal post .
Thanks guys.
Phil

[Goalhanger]

Ok, I didn’t realise …. The S2A with disc doesn’t have the cap but on the lower leg It is as per the S3 / KH400.
So I have to get the oil seal out by prising it out ….
Am I correct ?
Still need new washers and circlips though…
Ta
Phil

[Wolfie]

Aye, it's a prise it out job, leaning on the top of the leg with a jemmy can damage it, but you can drill some tiny holes in the seal and put self tappers in to be able to pull it out.


Other removal methods are available.

[Goalhanger]

Thanks for the tip, I’ll give it a go

Phil

[Goalhanger]

Another question……
Does anyone know if the chrome fork shrouds are available anywhere or if another model will fit? Not worried about the reflector hole.
Mine are well battered and rusty.

Phil

[malc87]

Speak to Simon at Kawa triple parts.
if he don't do them He will know where to get them redone.


I did have a quote from Philpotts who do hard chroming two weeks ago to redo a set of early fork stantions for someone in Holland.
The quote included straightning a slightly bent stantion too..........

Hello Malcolm

We thank you for your enquiry requesting a price to hard chrome and grind your motorcycle forks back to their original size.

If the forks are stripped down to two tubes only the cost would be £215.00 which also includes collection, delivery (UK mainland) and VAT.

We do however offer a second service whereby the whole legs are sent and we break them down, hard chrome, grind and re-assemble them fitting new fork seals and oil etc. We inspect internal components bushes, dust seals etc. and if any parts are worn we will advise to enable you to source new ones whilst we are rechroming and grinding your fork stanchions. These parts are normally OEM and you usually have to purchase from main dealers, who can send them direct to us. The total price for this complete breakdown amounts to £325.00 which again also includes collection, delivery (UK mainland) and VAT. If you require your bottom sliders polished or powder coated this would cost an additional £90.00.

Once you are ready to proceed just contact us and we can book a collection for your forks to be picked up by APC couriers the following day.

Normal turnaround time is usually about six weeks. Any further queries do not hesitate to contact me again.

Regards

[Goalhanger]

That is a really good price for fork service and rechrome. Mine are already apart or I might have used them myself.

Phil

[Goalhanger]

Malcolm, when you say Philpotts you mean the one in a Luton yes? If so I will contact them about re-chroming my levers etc …
Phil

[malc87]

I don’t know if they do normal chroming?
I had heard a lot of people had used them and were happy so I contacted them by email for a costing for my friend in Holland
No idea where there based . I was just going to use there collection and delivery service

[Goalhanger]

Ah ok thank you . Perhaps I’ll email them and ask .
Ta
Phil

[Goalhanger]

And another question….
Rear footrests : from my photos it looks like there’s a washer/rubber between the outside of the footrest and the frame. I found 2 spacers that look like they are 2 washers with rubber between. Is that correct as I can’t find anything in the parts lists other than the muffler mount rubbers.
If I don’t fit these spacers I think the bolt sticks too far in and will foul the swing arm…
Should’ve taken better photos
Ta
Phil

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[Craig T]

Ah ok thank you . Perhaps I’ll email them and ask .
Ta
Phil

Dynasurf is the other one to try. http://dynasurf.co.uk/motorcycle-forks/
Usually a quicker turnaround...price about the same.

[Goalhanger]

Hi Guys. Just to reiterate I’m rebuilding the forks myself . I will get replacement sliders.
Only issue I have (still) is getting the oil seal out from the bottoms. All that’s left in there now is the outer metal ring of the seal. I have been soaking them in penetrating oil for a few days before I have another go.
Regarding re-chroming , I have kickstart lever, brake and gear change levers. Plus the chrome finishers/shrouds that go over the lower fork support. Mine are well knackered so was looking for some off another model bike, but with such skinny little forks there doesn’t seem to be any available that will fit. I can rebuild the forks and assemble on bike without them I suppose.
The other thing was the ‘spacer’ on the rear foot rests as I mentioned in a previous post.
But it’s still coming together …. Wheel rims and spokes arriving soon…
Phil

[Craig T]

Penetrating oil won't help. The seal has a rubber outer face so it seals (clue is in the name) to the fork legs.
By the same score it's probably not seized in through corrosion..just a bl**dy tight fit.
£10 invested in fork seal puller might be a good idea...and maybe heating it up will help.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-SEAQF-A ... 7316&psc=1
I don't think any of the S1/S2 series had rubber bushing on the rear foot pegs...sounds like a DIY job to me .

[Goalhanger]

Hi Craig T , I will try heating up plus I used an old wheel spoje to hook behind and tap the fork leg with a hide mallet.
If not then it’s onto Amazon for the puller. I did look at some but they looked a bit woossie….. I made that mistake with some drill bits - went straight in the bin…
Regarding the rear foot pegs- the bolt part seems to stick inwards so far that I’m worried the swing arm will hit them. That’s why I looked at my photos and saw what I think was a spacer/rubber…

Phil

[Goalhanger]

Hi Craig T . Just tried again - no luck . Gonna order a puller.
The outer face of the oil seal definitely is metal and it is on the replacements as well.
Phil

2405FE74-A681-441F-959B-0D458438C931.jpeg

[Goalhanger]

Ok , done it, both seals out. In the end I put an M10 bolt in the vice and hooked the bolt end inside the seal. Many moderate taps with a hide mallet and they came out.
So now onto cleaning inside and out and polishing up before I get the new sliders with new bushes. I would prefer a vapour blasted finish but I can’t keep spending ……

Phil

[Triple Parts]

... I would prefer a vapour blasted finish but I can’t keep spending ……

Fine wet & dry, then wire wool or Scotchbrite works well on the fork lowers.
.

[Goalhanger]

Wet & dry then wire wool then Autosolv on a buffer wheel …
1 done 1 to do . Will finish by hand and possibly lacquer over.

C64167D4-A42B-4A39-A2D3-888631F8130F.jpeg

[Triple Parts]

My experience (a long time ago) with lacquer on fork legs is it didn't work very well or last very long, but perhaps modern finishes like Cerakote are much better these days?
Most people just keep them polished as it's easier if you ride it.
.