Rebuild 1973 350 S2A by Goalhanger Phil

[Triple Parts]

Hi Tony. I can’t turn the banjo round in the m/cyl as it would then mean turning the one on the forks round and it won’t fit then. I did try it that way first but it just doesn’t fit due to the kinks at the banjos.
Phil

Then the hoses are wrong. Where did you get them?
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[Triple Parts]

I would recommend that you download the 250 and 400 restoration PDF's here viewforum.php?f=44
They are KH models, but a lot of the details are generic.
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[Rickm]

If you contact Hel (looks like that's where they're from) they will tell you whether and how to rotate the banjos on the hose.
I did this with mine and it was very easy.

[Goalhanger]

Thanks guys for all your replies.
Is there anything wrong with how it is?
I will check if the banjos move shortly..

Ta
Phil

[Goalhanger]

Hi guys,
Banjos don’t seem to move on mine.
I had another look and I think if I reversed the m/cyl one it would hit the tacho body .
As long as it’s ok I’ll leave it
Cheers
Phil

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[mraxl]

Seems a shame to sacrifice the beauty and detail of this build for lack of correct brake hose/boot.

[Goalhanger]

I tried to reuse the original but it fell apart . So I’ve ordered a new one
So many little things keep popping up but won’t be long now .

[Triple Parts]

https://kawasakitripleparts.com/product ... cba1185463
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[Goalhanger]

Thanks Tony, I bought the hoses from KawaTripleParts or Z-Power for S2A. I’m ok with them now I quite like the routing round the back I’m really not that worried about originality although I’ve tried to re use old stuff when I can ..
But some of the stuff I’ve done I would’ve done as a teenager anyway …..
I just want to ride it now …. Come on exhausts I need you …

Phil

[Goalhanger]

So finally got the brake caliper apart with much heat and a long bar on the Allen key…..
It’s all apart now except the piston which i can just about get to rotate but wont come out - yet ….
I’m hoping that the bore will be ok to reuse when it eventually comes out. !
Holding off buying the new piston and seals etc just in case its all buggered inside.

[Goalhanger]

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[Goalhanger]

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[GWB]

Hi Phil,

Have you tried to connect it back to the M/Cylinder and pump it out, worked for me in the past.

Cheers Gary

[Goalhanger]

Hi Gary. I haven’t got the master cylinder filled up yet as it’s a new one .
I don’t think there’d be enough pressure though. I can only just rotate it when I’ve heated it up . I’ve tried an alloy drift to try to push the body off while holding the piston in the vice but it won’t come out yet. I suppose I just need more heating up and rotating ……..
it’s soaking in penetrating oil at the moment.
Do you think the bore will be ok or will it be pitted ..?
Ta
Phil

[mraxl]

Your best bet is to do as suggested and hook up the master to pump it out or use a grease gun.... hydraulic pressure can do more than you might think.

[Triple Parts]

Do you think the bore will be ok or will it be pitted ..?

Now where did I put that crystal ball
Seriously, it is mainly the steel piston that corrodes. It just depends how much damage you do getting it out. Any aluminium corrosion on the bore bores can generally be cleaned up with a light brass dremel.
As others have suggested, the easiest way is to just to connect it to a master cylinder and pump it out. You can connect an air line to the nipple and blow it out, but make sure that it is pointing at something soft!
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[Goalhanger]

Thanks guys, looks like I’ll need to get some fluid in the system and give it a go .
Ta
Phil

[Eric]

Use the airline ,put a pad over the piston .

[GWB]

Hi Phil,

I am sure that when apart the ally body will clean up without any trouble at all, it is always the steel piston that is ruined through rust and pitting, one thing to watch out for is that you don't damage the sit area in the calliper where the piston seal sits, if you can connect it back up to your M/Cylinder with oil in and the brake calliper held in a vice, as you pump you can also rotate the piston with a set of mole grips to help it push out. Chances of saving your piston is very low depending on how low the brake pads where, allowing your piston to be extended out allowing the piston exposure to air allowing rust to form and if there was any oil remaining in the calliper stopping the rust working its way in past the seal. Piston and seals are easy to find but your calliper body is your main concern as they are not so easy to find.
Also again if I was yourself I would the replace piston with a complete seal kit while you are there, has I'm sure you wouldn't want to damage a new seal with a pitted piston or do this job again any time soon.

Regards Gary

[Goalhanger]

Hi guys, not had a chance to get back out to garage yet.
I’ve left the body soaking in penetrating oil .
Is there a way to connect up to an electric tyre pump ?
Soon as I can I’ll be back out there and connect up the brake system and see if I can shift the piston. Would it be ok to heat up the body first or would that boil up the brake fluid …?
I will definitely replace all that I can including the piston..
thanks
Phil

[GWB]

Hi Phil,

If it was me I would start this whole job without heat first, make sure you bleed the brake fluid through then as I say put pressure on the M/Cylinder and calliper in a vice then small turn movements on your grips to ease the piston through the seal, there is a fair bit of pressure from your M/Cylinder and with a bit of wiggling on your piston with your grips I'm sure it will come out, may take a few minutes but once it starts moving out then the oil pressure will push it all the way.

Regards Gary

[Goalhanger]

Ok so I had a day off doing the caliper as my exhausts are on the way .
So I adjusted up all the cables , fitted the tank and petrol tap and fuel pipes.
Fitted HT leads . Wish I’d fitted the leads into the coils before fitting them onto bike. Right bugger getting the leads to screw in.
I also rotated the top brake hose round and put the boot on . Hoping the attachment at the fork is ok. I’ll attach some pics to show.
Tried to fit the rubber inlet tubes . Boiled them up first then tried to get the middle one on. Just couldn’t get it to go on the carb body. Have another go tomorrow. Suspect the middle one is the hardest to get on due to access…
Also I’m thinking there should be some kind of clamp on the oil pipe - tank to pump ??? Not seen any for sale though.

Need my chrome bits back now as I’ve got no kickstart or gear change lever and the bike is in gear at the moment…

Cheers Guys
Phil

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